Meet the Festive Makers: The Bakers

It’s like Morecambe without Wise or Santa without his sleigh: Christmas would be incomplete without cake (or pudding, for that matter). Alice Ryan talks to Gill Abbs and Miriam Labita, Head Baker and Deputy Head Baker at Fitzbillies, the bakery which has been making Cambridge’s Christmas cakes for more than a century. . .

When do you start prepping - and baking - for Christmas? What does a typical day in the Fitzbillies bakery look like, in the run-up to the festive season?
G: Preparations start early so that our branches and online shop know what we’re going to make. We actually start planning for Christmas in July. We baked our first Christmas stuff in August for the photos for our website and brochure. In the last few years more and more customers are sending gifts from the website.
M: In the middle of October – that’s when we start baking Christmas treats daily. On a typical day, once the Chelsea buns are done first thing, we’re onto mince pies and festive macarons, as well as finishing and topping the Christmas cakes.

Talking about your Christmas cakes: tell us about the recipe. . . Is it an old one? What makes it so popular?
G: We’ve been using that Christmas cake recipe for about 40 years. It’s not quite the original Fitzbillies’ recipe, but it’s close - and maybe even better!
M: I think what makes it so good is that we soak the fruit in orange and lemon zest and add lots of rum. We keep feeding it rum to make it extra delicious.

And the puddings? Same questions. . .
M: I didn’t grow up making Christmas puddings - I’m Italian - so I didn’t know Guinness was a traditional ingredient! Soaking the fruits with that and brandy… that makes it so good.
G: And the figs and apples. They’re what make it lighter than most. They’re not traditionally in a pudding, but they really are very good.

To give us a sense of the demand for your cakes and puds: how many of each do you sell every year, on average?
M: We’re on track to make 530 puddings, and nearly 600 cakes for both our local customers and UK delivery via our website. Pre-orders start at the beginning of October and just keep coming!
G: The real number I think about is the mince pies. We make around 18,000 mince pies each festive season – that’s the recipe I’m most proud of. It’s my baby.

When we’re buying a Christmas cake or pud from Fitzbillies, we’re buying a little slice of history, aren’t we? How long has Fitzbillies been baking these festive classics for the people of Cambridge?
G: Christmas cakes have been made by Fitzbillies since the beginning, more than 103 years ago. Puddings were a little later, I think, but very early.
M: It’s amazing keeping the tradition going for Fitzbillies fans.

For those who aren’t a fan of fruitcakes or puddings, you’re known for your gingerbreads too, aren’t you? And did someone mention ‘Chelsea bun Christmas trees’??
G: The gingerbread is a real favourite – same recipe for more than 30 years. The Cambridge gingerbread looks amazing, as well as being delicious.
M: The Chelsea bun Christmas tree is new for this year, but it’s the original Fitzbillies Chelsea bun recipe. It’s so exciting, because it comes either ready baked or bake-at-home, so you can have really fresh Chelsea buns on Christmas morning!

What drew you both to baking as a career? And what’s the reward?
G: I started baking at 15 and haven’t stopped. It’s just what I love to do.
M: I started out training in accountancy and marketing, but I loved baking too much. I baked with my mum, and I’ve always been someone who’ll feed you cake!

You’re sitting down with a cup of tea/glass of mulled wine on Christmas afternoon. What sweet treat are you having alongside?
G: Mince pie. It’s tradition.
M: For me, it’s a mixture of English mince pies and Italian panettone.

• The Fitzbillies Christmas gift collection is available for nationwide delivery. Browse and buy a fitzbillies.com