Cooking the Seasons: It’s time for root veg to take centre-plate
12 years as a top-flight chef inspired Bury’s Rowen Halstead to fight food waste. Now better known as Waste Not Rowen, he tells us how to make the very most of winter produce
If you’re anything like me, the last thing you want to do after feasting daily in the festive season is think about more food. The remnants of the cheeseboard still lingers centre stage of the fridge. The forgotten stollen lurking in the cupboard with the mince pies keeping it company, feeling borderline taboo to consume in January. The never-ending supply of bubble and squeak or turkey, cranberry, and brie toasties.
They are all, without a doubt, fond memories, filling the void of an otherwise desolate time for seasonal produce. But the new year brings with it a new lease of life - the beginning of the seasonal cycle. So don’t be brought down by festive blues, be joyous to dive into a new year of seasonal food because, under the covers (or soil), winter has so much to offer.
Root vegetables truly see the light of day during winter. Stewed away in casseroles, or simply roasted and crispy, something really rather magical happens when you give root vegetables some love and time (and thyme…). But putting the potatoes, carrots, parsnips, or even swedes to one side, the unsung hero of the root vegetables this time of year has to be the Jerusalem artichoke, which just so happens to not be from Jerusalem, nor technically an artichoke. Roast with an unhealthy amount of butter to give the artichokes a deep, crisp, nutty skin and the centres fluffy and creamy.
Stir them through a risotto with a mound of grated parmesan, an indulgent drizzle of truffle oil, and finish with a generous squeeze of lemon and you’ll be transported out of the New Year slump in one spoonful. However, what makes Jerusalem artichokes genuinely awe-inspiring is their ability to work faultlessly in desserts. Their sweetness, when cooked, lends itself seamlessly to apples, maple syrup, various nuts, and coffee. Don’t believe me? Try roasting some Jerusalem artichokes in the oven with some butter until soft. Then drizzle with honey or maple syrup and top with some granola and yoghurt or coffee ice cream.
Back above ground, we all have memories of overcooked, under-seasoned cauliflower. For a very long time it was my least favourite vegetable, but we have developed a heartfelt relationship over the years and they’ve now become a cherished ingredient. It’s more accessible than most seasonal vegetables I talk about, but the humble cauliflower deserves far more praise than it receives. Nevertheless, what I urge of you most of all is to widen your horizons and eat the whole thing, leaves and all.
Turn the oven on high, rub a cauliflower with ras-el-hanout, harissa, yoghurt, salt, and lemon juice and zest, and roast in a casserole dish for roughly 40 minutes until golden and aromatic. The crispy leaves almost charred and nutty, but the cauliflower itself zesty and fragrant. If you’re looking for something more indulgent for the cold, dark evenings, immerse in a camembert, caramelised onion, and truffle cauliflower cheese using every part of the cauliflower. I have come to realise that truffle works with almost everything this time of year.
Speaking of using cauliflower leaves, winter is the perfect time to think about utilising as much of a product as possible. With less produce to pick from, getting creative with stems and stalks, peels and pips is a great way to mix up your menu. As my social media name suggests, I believe reducing our food waste is integral, now more than ever. With the absurd amount of food that goes to waste around Christmas (up 30% from the rest of the year), January is our time to rebalance the scales. Whatever you cook this month, think about what is going to waste. Could you use those food scraps in an imaginative way?
Most vegetables don’t need peeling, just a good scrub, which retains more of its nutritional value and reduces waste. 17.2 million Brussels sprouts end up in landfills over the festive period, so if you still have stored away sprouts shake it up. Make a batch of tangy Brussels sprout kimchi that will last for months. Roast them until almost charred and blend them with fresh herbs, parmesan, olive oil, and pine nuts to make a vibrant pesto (mixed through pasta the kids will never know!).
A new year, a new chapter. Let those pages be filled with creative, seasonal recipes that fill you with joy whenever you cook and consume them. Slow down and celebrate the comfort of cooking. So, as the days grow colder and the nights darker, make sure your kitchen is warmer, and the food brighter.
Follow @wastenotrowen for more information, advice and recipe inspiration.
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Velvet Magazine contributor