Sustainable Style: How to wear wool well

A beautifully designed and made item of knitwear is something to cherish. And if you can make your own then all the better. Three local designers talk knits to Lisa Millard

Quinton + Chadwick

Jess Quinton, knitwear designer

The start

My lovely grandma taught me to knit but I wasn’t very patient. I fell in love with it when I went to the Royal College of Art and discovered machine knitting – so much quicker. I was working for Italian knitwear house Missoni and had returned to the UK to work as a freelance designer when I met Jane Chadwick my former business partner. We came together with a shared vision for an artisan knitwear label that was 100% made in Britain.

The motivation

We could see that the wonderful heritage and skills that were a historic part of some communities would be lost, as so much production was being moved to parts of the world where the cost of labour is cheap. We wanted the label Quinton + Chadwick to be synonymous with great British craftsmanship but not be stuffy or old fashioned. We make things that are a considered purchase and will be kept, loved and will last.

The inspiration

I came to Suffolk for family holidays when I was a child and my grandparents retired here so it has always had a nostalgic charm for me. Those big skies and coastal sunsets are hard to beat, and I love the rich textures in nature, particularly the woodlands, meadows and of course the coastal walks.

The ethos

Concerned with the effects of fast fashion on the environment, we always wanted our knits to capture the true worth of traditionally crafted UK textiles that will last the test of time. There is much ‘green washing’ that happens when big companies get a garment finished in the UK that has been made in the Far East – just to put Made in UK on the label. The entire Quinton + Chadwick process all takes place here in Britain, from designing, spinning of the yarn and knitting to packaging and posting.

The love

It’s a joy and a privilege to be able to work in a creative industry and the love is really in seeing my designs emerge and then seeing them worn by people across the world. There is nothing quite like it.

Collaborations

We have completed quite a few – The Tate, V&A and Anthropologie to name a few – and more are planned this year. The lavishly refurbished Courtauld Gallery shop has commissioned a collection and there is a collaboration with an East Anglian based Influencer on a couple of pieces. Watch this space.

Spring 2022

Expect the Chadwick + Quinton signature quality, idiosyncratic colour combinations with a fun, modern edge on traditional and sustainable knits with some new and exciting textures – but I can’t reveal all yet.

See quintonchadwick.com and @quintonchadwick,

Sophie Hemmings, aka Knit Purl Girl

The start

My poor mother tried to teach me to knit several times as a child and teenager and I just never really got it, despite coming from a long line of knitters. At 24, back in 2019, I was waiting to hear if I had been accepted for a PhD course with funding and I was struggling quite badly with anxiety. My mum put some needles and wool in my hands and gave me a very simple pattern to follow. And it clicked. Suddenly I could knit.

The motivation

I started my Instagram account The Knit Purl Girl to document my progress as a knitter and to keep track of what I had made, and then I got into designing my own patterns. I start by researching knitwear trends, thinking about what I would like to wear, and sketch ideas. I consider yarns and make proof-of-concept swatches before starting to knit the sample When the sample is finished, I take careful measurements and scale the garment up and down in size in a process called ‘grading’ to ensure the item looks the same on everyone, even if their body type is different to mine. I write up the pattern and it gets sent out to test before I publish.

The inspiration

Ideas come from anywhere. I can be in Cambridge and see someone in a great jumper that sparks inspiration, or I might find a yarn or learn a new stitch and an idea will develop as I play with the fibres.

The ethos

One of the reasons I learnt to make my own clothing was because I wanted to opt out of fast fashion entirely but couldn’t afford clothes from more expensive sustainable retailers. That said, knitting is a time-consuming and sometimes expensive hobby with its own sustainability issues. The use of acrylic vs natural fibres is quite controversial within the community as micro-plastics are a sustainability nightmare, but so too is commercial pastoral farming. I also don’t think it’s realistic to expect everyone to spend up-to 40 hours making a jumper every time they need a new one.

The love

Knitting is a mindful activity that doesn’t require any screen time and can be done alone or with friends. It’s creative but also requires a lot of technical knowledge and skills so there’s always something new to learn, which really appeals to me

Spring 2022

As well as working on my PhD – I research coinage and coin-use in northern and central Italy between c. 750-850 CE – I’ve got some exciting patterns due to be released this spring, including lightweight summer knitted tops in a beautiful and cruelty-free silk. I’ve also been putting together a giant guide to my favourite type of yarn, mohair. I’m already working on my designs for next autumn/winter – good things take time.

See the-knit-purl-girl.com and @the_knit_purl_girl.

Iris Hardege of Hiris Makes and yarn brand Hook & Light

The start

My mum tried to teach me to knit on a few occasions, and it was a bit of a failure. I always have the tendency to run before I can walk and try to make something really complicated, then give up.

The motivation

Knitwear design became the primary focus of my Instagram during the 2020 lockdown (when else). I decided to give designing my own patterns a go and realised that the combination of creativity and maths was right up my street. Some patterns come together easily and quickly, others can be a nightmare, especially if they have a non-standard construction. However, it is possible to hire people who help you with calculating for different sizes so all you really need to get started is a good idea, and a lot of notes so you remember how you made your design.

The inspiration

All sorts of places, it’s hard to pinpoint when a certain design idea comes about. I love being out in nature and am often inspired by the seasons. Sometimes I am inspired by an outfit I see someone wearing in the street or by the yarn itself.

The ethos

Another great thing about knitting your own garments is being able to choose yarns that meet your sustainability criteria. There is so much yarn on the market, you can often even get yarn that is from sheep within a few miles of your home. There are also options for yarn that is dyed with natural dyes like plants and insects.

The love

There is something incredibly satisfying about making your own clothes – that moment when someone compliments your jumper, and you can say ‘oh I made it myself’ is unbeatable. I also love how you can knit anywhere and at any time, you can easily stop and start and don’t need a lot of complicated tools or a dedicated space.

The thinking (Iris is a post-doc neuroscience researcher)

I’m not sure how my work and knitting are related, but it is strange how many scientists I know that knit. It’s true that knitting has been shown to have lots of amazing benefits for the brain. Many knitters will tell you that it reduces their stress and anxiety. The sense of achievement upon completing a garment also stimulates reward pathways in the brain which cause the release of mood boosting chemicals like dopamine. I’ve even read studies that suggest knitting decreases your risk of neurodegenerative diseases like Alzheimer’s

Favourite things

Typically, my favourite design is the one I’ve just finished. For summer I really love the Eyelet Bralette, it’s such a handy little top that can be worn as a layer under other shirts or jumpers or can also be worn alone in the height of summer. In winter my favourite oscillates a lot, but my most worn is probably the Phase Cardigan because it just goes with everything.

See hirismakes.com and @hirismakes.